Updated: 14 Feb., 2019
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Q. Why is my pool water green?
A. Algae is certainly the cause of the green, but an imbalance of pH and/or alkalinity could be one of the reasons you have algae in the first place (while there is adequate chlorine). One other reason may be a high level of TDS or Phosphates. A Very high PH significantly decreases the effectiveness of chlorine. You need to test and adjust your pH and alkalinity, this is the first step. Then test for TDS(Total Dissolved Solids) and Phosphates.
Q. What is PH?
A. PH stands for Power of Hydrogen and is the balance between alkalinity and acidity. The balance of the PH in your pool is important because an imbalance can result in eye and skin irritants for bathers.
Q. Why is my pump so noisy?
A. In your pump motor there are bearings. A loud pump motor is a sign of bad bearings. Bearings can be replaced but in most cases the motor is replaced.
Q: How long should I run my pumps?
A: The amount of time required to run your system depends on the time of year and the conditions around your pool area.
In the Spring and Summer months, as the weather turns warmer and swimming increases, the demand for chemicals and filtration increases. It is recommended that the entire volume of water be filtered through twice a day. This can typically be achieved in an 8 to 10 hour run time per day.
In the Fall and Winter, the weather turns cooler and the demand for chemicals and filtration decreases. It is recommended that the entire volume of water be filtered through once per day. This can typically be achieved in a 4 to 6 hour run time per day. Consider the following when determining the amount of time to run your filter: If your pool is on a heavily wooded lot, you will want to extend the run times during the Fall and Spring. If you heat the pool in the Winter your demand for both chemicals and filtration does not decrease and you will want to continue to use the guidelines for Spring and Summer operation.
Q: My pool is losing water! What should I do?
A: You can expect some water loss due to evaporation and splash out during swimming. The evaporation rate varies by season, area in which you live and the amount of time you run your water features. You will experience greater loss of water through evaporation, the greater the difference between warm air temperatures and cooler water temperatures. If you suspect you are losing an above average amount of water in your pool, check all plumbing and equipment for leaks, inspect backwash line for water bypassing valve and inspect interior of pool for cracks. Please contact us to schedule a service call for visual leaks at equipment.
Q. I've heard this, is it true a Florida pool can 'pop up out of the ground' when drained?
A. Of all types of pools, concrete / gunite pools are the most likely to 'pop up out of the ground' or more commonly referred to as 'float'. When the pool is emptied, the force exerted downwards by the pool is less.
Here are three explanations depending on the height of the water table:
- If the water table is lower than the bottom of the pool. No hydrostatic pressure exists so the pool does not move!
- If the water table is so high that the force exerted by the hydrostatic pressure exceeds that exerted by the weight of the pool and then the pool 'pops up out of the ground'!
- If there exists a point of equilibrium where the upwards force exerted by the hydrostatic pressure equals that of the weight of the pool, as long as the water table is lower than this point, then the pool will not move.
Q. My electric bill for my pool is very high. Can you do anything to help me lower my bill?
A. Absolutely, old technology inertia drive pool motors are usually the second biggest energy users at your home. We offer energy efficient variable speed replacement motors that meet Florida's new Pool Energy Law, and more importantly save you money.
Q. What does this new Florida Energy Efficiency law mean for my pool?
A. The simple explanation for this code is:
All residential pool pump motors on the circulatory system (attached to your filter) that are greater than 3/4 HP will need to be changed to variable or 2-speed motors when they need to be replaced.
There are exceptions for motors still under manufacturers warranty, but all other motors on the circulatory system of the pool need to be upgraded when replaced.
These new variable speed motors are a huge technological improvement over old inertia drive motors. They will save you money.
There are also new rules for pool heaters, heat pumps and plumbing.
Q. The weather is beautiful but my pool is too cold. What’s the best way to heat my pool and/or spa?
A. Heat Pumps for Pools and Gas Heat for Spas, and yes get both if you have both.
A Heat Pump is designed specifically to takes advantage of the warm air of Florida giving us an extended and early swim season. Heat pumps are more dependable and efficient than ever. They can even cool your pool in the summer!
If you need to swim daily for therapy or state of mind a heat pump with a gas heater as backup is the way to go.
Gas Heat is a great option to heat a spa. It is the fastest performing heater and for the small body of water in your spa it is the best way to go. But it is usually too expensive to use to heat an entire pool except in an emergency instance.
Solar panels or heat for your pool depending upon your house's roof position may also meet your needs but has less dependability due to roof positioning, trees and cloud cover than does a heat pump.